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La Palma

A personal project by Jonathan Browning

Paradise to ashes

A blanket of black stretches across the landscape, punctuated only by fleeting glimpses of white, blue, and green. This is the new reality for an a large area on the South West of La Palma, two years after a volcanic eruption wreaked havoc. In January 2024 I travelled into this transformed landscape to see how the current situation is. . At the time of the eruption, the internet was awash with the red molten lava photos that are synonymous with any volcanic eruption.  But what is it like after the lava has cooled, the toxic gases are spent and it’s finally deemed safe to return. 

When this idyllic corner of La Palma, a northwestern Canary Island, was being developed, green, blue, and white were the colors that dominated the dreams of hundreds of foreign homeowners,   Back then, the Cumbre Vieja volcano group (18 kilometers long and boasting a staggering 120 active volcanoes) was simply a majestic backdrop for sun seekers. The eruption of Cumbre Vieja began on September 19th, 2021, raging for 85 days until December 13th. It was the largest and longest eruption ever recorded on La Palma. In some places, the lava flow stretched a staggering 3 kilometers wide and 6 kilometers long, burying over 3,000 houses and the whole town of Todoque. The unforgiving lava severed the coastal road and even gifted La Palma with a new, 25-football-field-sized, pitch-black peninsula. While there were thankfully no casualties, countless dream homes were lost and for many the option to rebuild is out of the question. 
 
 
© Jonathan Browning
 
As recently featured in De Volkskrant
Two local children play football at a pitch below the volcano in Las Manchas. Lino (blonde hair on the left) and Ilay (with white hair band) both aged 7. Thier homes were not destroyed but are now separated by the lava with the road destoyed. This football pitch escaped the lava flows but had nearly a meter of volcanic ash accumulate on the pitch. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
New landscapes made in the area of the volcanic eruption, lava flows and ash carpets that followed. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
Completely destroyed and partially destroyed buildings and homes that got in the way of the lava flows. A whole town of Todoque sits below many meteres of lava. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
Cementerio de Nuestra Señora in Las Manchas. A large cemetery was destoyed by the lava, here is what remains. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
Canu Martin-Mur, (67) from Spain. She had to remove some lava that broke her garden walls and destroyed mature palm trees. She has since replaced tha wall and laid down an artificial lawn and planted new palms and plants to regrow again. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
An abandoned hotel and swimming pool which was partly destroyed by the lava flow and cut off from main roads. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
La Bombilla. A German couple who have been living on the island for over 20 years sunbathe on the edge of the beach infront of the new lava flow which has overtaken the once long beach and formed a new peninsula. It is forbidden to walk on the lava field due to risk of collapse and gas emissions. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
The father, Moises Ramos Leon, (48) with his dog, Franco. A family play and relax on what was a vineyard. They lost everything in the eruptions. West Las Manchas. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.
German tourists enjoy breakfast outside in the garden of their guesthouse which sits adjacent to the lava flow. La Palma. An island of the Canaries. Two years after the Cumbre Vieja volcanic eruption in late 2021. Photography taken on January 2024.

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© Todd Antony

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